Winter months are fish eating months in Istanbul. There are many possibilities to get a ‘fish fix’ - one can wander down to the Eminönü fish stalls set up on the Haliç (Golden Horn) shores near the Galata Bridge, on colourful, fake historical boats screaming “Tinsel Touristy!!” at the approaching visitor. We all know it, it seems, but everyone is happy to just keep going with the charade, and queue for Balık Ekmek (Fish bread), that can we washed down wonderfully with şalgam*, a piquant drink made from turnips, tasting not unlike the brine from pickled gherkins. Or one could walk across Galata Bridge over to Karaköy and sit down in one of the fish restaurants, most having terraces that look out over the Golden Horn, where it enters the Bosphorus. I am honest, they are not my sort of place. I avoid any place that caters too obviously for tourists only, service can be quite fake and superficial.. I once went into one of those places upon my visiting mother’s request. I was very underwhelmed with the food, which was later somewhat balanced out being overwhelmed by the bill. Beşiktaş offers many small fish restaurants, especially around the vicinity of the Balık Pazarı (fish bazar). It’s generally a pleasant place to visit, and has a number of attractive choices for a quick meal, some renowned amongst Istanbulites who will form spectacular queues if the food is right. Between two people, we ordered the hamsi tava (fried anchovies pan), the Karadeniz Mezgit (whiting), and as an afterthought a half portion of fried mussels that come with a garlic sauce. I particularly enjoyed the mussels and I’m a huge fan of Hamsi anyway. You eat them whole, the bones and head too small that they require removal. So it’s no picking around. Just grab some between slices of bread, some lemon and salt, and down the shute they go. The Mezgit were a bit more finicky eating, needing halving and removing the bones. I didn’t feel that the result was worth it, for my taste they were a bit insipid. Perhaps the mussels and the luscious garlic sauce were too much of a tough act to follow. You couldn’t exactly accuse Hamsi of having a shy, modest flavour. It will linger long after you have eaten, and removed the fishy smell with washing hands and rubbing cologne on. This meal got me through the rest of the day, without wanting another meal (bar something sweet later on, to have with tea). Cost 2 ppl: Half portion Mussels, 1 portion Hamsi, 1 portion Mezgit, 2 types of salads, drinks - 48TL *This drink deserves a dedicated entry, so that’s all I will say for today. The fishmonger is right next door to the restaurant
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AuthorInnate curiosity, learned (discovered) deep love and appreciation for Turkey, a bit of time at my hands, and always hungry: voila, a food blogger! Archives
September 2019
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