With over 8000km of coastline it comes as no surprise that this country’s cuisine includes fish. Turkey butts to the shores of the Black Sea, Aegean and the Mediterranean, as well as the Marmara Sea. Coming to the popular travel spots means you won’t be far away from a body of water: be it Istanbul, Izmir, Bodrum, Antalya or the Black Sea cities. There are of course the high-end restaurants that focus on fish. Often located in touristic areas, I steer well clear of them. Generally overpriced, the tasting experience comes usually second to location, variously with or without iconic views of one of the countless Istanbul views. Balık rakının yanında değilse bırakın yüzmeye devam etsin. “Unless fish is accompanied by rakı, leave it to swim in the water” Then there are the Meyhane places where rakı ve balık takes the centre stage, but as a substantial supporting cast, meze dishes are absolutely critical. But a night out in a Meyhane is also a more pricey outing due to the cost of alcohol. And it isn’t to fill your belly, it’s really a social outing. A little less formal, one can go to establishments mainly in Beşiktaş and Kadıköy that sell panfried anchovies and such like, that I have written about before. It must be that time of the year again. As I made mention then, ’just fish’ can also be bought extremely cheaply in form of balık ekmeği (fish bread), for example from ‘popup’ grills by the piers of Karaköy. I love them a lot, so quintessentially Turkish: the resourcefulness with which someone crafted himself a portable shop, the knifemanship when cutting tomatoes and onions on extremely limited surfaces, the wonderful smells coming from fish that is grilling over charcoals that could easily carry one away to an imaginary remote beach with a campfire, the fish just having been hauled from the ocean. On the other side of Galata Bridge, the same can be bought from established businesses, either of faux Ottoman empire river boats or from the restaurants located underneath the bridge. There the tradition of balık ekmeği, has been around for a long time, but I am not a big fan of the hectic atmosphere there and the jostling over interested/ hungry-looking passers-by. Either way, it’s a Turkish take on fast food, and you’ll eat your meal either standing on your feet, or in a mad rush on a small stool. Palukçu ('The Fish Monger' - pronounced in the way Black Sea people speak) So when I entered Palukçu last week, I knew I had found my brand-new favorite: A sit-down restaurant that offers a versatile, but simple enough menu. As you enter the shop, you can take a look at the uncooked fish. I had already made up my mind, it was to be anchovies after the long summer break that spells ‘fish abstinence’. Because nothing says ‘September’ more than ‘Hamsi’. The service was efficient and very friendly. Şehremini / Çapa is located just inside the old city walls ie if you have gone to Topkapı, you’ve already missed it. But it’s a few tram stops away from Aksaray. Not very many tourist will likely end up there. Bu it’s so well worth it. Unaccompanied fish, and well worth the disappointment! There is no alcohol license in this place (Çapa is a fairly family-oriented part of Istanbul). The fish is fresh, but what stood out was the attentive and friendly service from all personnel. It truly was noticeable. Once seated, our orders were swiftly taken. A great big bowl of salad appeared, the waiter adding pomegranate sauce only after it was served, everything being fresh and appetising, and not swimming in some oily marinade. The typical Istanbul bread of course couldn’t be missing, but there was also a bread made from cornmeal (and probably semolina), much welcomed as a flour-free alternative. The main act of the night, the anchovies, were delightful, the portion generous. I will definitely be back again. The quality of the fish, the price of the meal, the way the place is run, and the welcoming atmosphere are worth the tram trip (or the extended walk) to Palukçu. The absence of alcohol may mean those fishes’ dying wish to for their last big swim to be in rakı may not be granted. They may make their peace with (and in) ayran, water, or şalgam (as I drank), but their final act was anything but inconspicuous. A seriously lovely plate of seafood. Well done, Palukçu!
1 Comment
|
AuthorInnate curiosity, learned (discovered) deep love and appreciation for Turkey, a bit of time at my hands, and always hungry: voila, a food blogger! Archives
September 2019
Categories |